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ARTICLES
(Click on the links)
1. HPT Method - Not just another trim!
2. Dr. Bowker's Hoof Wall Growth Theory
3. Energy Management of the Equine Hoof
4. Hoof Dressings - Good or Bad for the Equine Hoof?
5. How to tell the medial from the lateral side of the hoof (Microsoft Word, by Vickey Hollingsworth)
6. How does the HPT Method look different than "natural" trims? (Microsoft Word, by Vickey Hollingsworth)
7. Articles from Pete Ramey's Site (some good reading here!)
8. Nature's Hoof - Barefoot and Balanced (more good reading)
8. Beet Pulp Article by Susan Garlinghouse - Published at Equethy.com (An absolute MUST READ! I feed soaked beet pulp to my horses and highly recommend it as a safe, effective, and desirable alternative feed choice. I *ALWAYS* soak it, contrary to the article, and never recommend anyone feed it dry.)
Anatomy of the Equine Hoof:
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Explanation of Terms, and Comparisons:
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It takes 1 year to grow a new hoof (or does it????)
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I frequently hear people say "It will take your horse a whole year to grow a new hoof." Well, this statement is extremely misleading. I might take a full year for the most dorsal aspect of the toe to reach the ground level, but the rest of the hoof is reaching the ground at a much faster rate. Also, don't forget that "the hoof" is not synonymous with "the dorsal toe wall." People tend to take into consideration only the most dorsal aspect of the toe wall and forget the rest of the hoof! The origins of the sole, frog, and bars are much closer to the ground surface than the coronary band which grows outer wall. And the heels and quarters are closer to the ground than the dorsal toe wall. In a healthy hoof with correct hoof form and function, you will turn over heel at nearly 4 times the rate you will turn over toe growth.
Spectrum of Usability:
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The Spectrum of Usability is a tool to rate the overall hoof health of the horse, and establish guidelines for recommended use and rehabilitation. It is beneficial to periodically assess each individual structure of each hoof to track progress, and to establish a baseline. Working a horse within his spectrum is a good insurance policy to guard against making a horse sore because his structures can't handle the work he is presented.
The Spectrum of Usability is mainly beneficial to high performance shoeless horses, or to owners who wish to have documented progression of the rehabilitation process. So what exactly "IS" the Spectrum of Usability, and what do the numbers mean? Click the above thumbnail to expand a sample copy.
So in overview:
- 1: Bleeding, extremely pathalogical, missing structures, extreme injury or disease
- 3: Structures present but weak
- 5: Good overall structure, healthy, suitable for moderate trail riding barefoot
- 7: Extremely strong, healthy structures, horse probably capable of higher performance work while barefoot
- 10: The most correct, perfect hoof possible (and in reality...very rare)
Please note it's possible for one structure on a horse to be extremely poor, and another structure to be very strong. By reviewing the sheet, you can tell which structure needs rehab, and which structures are doing well. The "Qualifying Reason" section will note why the horse is recieving a particular overall score. If the horse has a great foot, but a puncture wound to one frog causes that structure to rate a "1" then obviously it would not be wise to take the horse on a long trail ride without protection. The horse may come in at a "5" overall, but the weak link may warrant rest and healing before resuming work. This will be noted on the form, and I encourage you to follow up with your veterinarian if you have any concerns or further questions.
Obviously this is a rough guideline designed to give some direction and instruction. Your regular farrier has probably guided and instructed you very similiarly, but this is simply putting it down on a form where you can review it at a later date if you wish. I complete a Spectrum of Usability every time I see your horse. It only takes 5 minutes, and it's helpful for review after I've left and you can't remember what we talked about. This way anything noteworthy is documented on the form. Owners like having these forms for their horse's file so records can be kept over the years of changes, and problems. With the busy lives everyone leads, it's easy to forget information over time.
Acccck! The Big "T" Word!
...yes it's...THRUSH
Punky frogs, black gooey discharge, loss of stability in the back of the foot, bad smell, frog wasting, pain.....these are all signs that something is amiss and needs to be dealt with PRONTO!
Most hoof care professionals agree that thrush (or any type of frog infection: yeast, bacteria, fungus), is usually caused by one of four things, or all at once:
1. Poor environment - wet conditions, soiled bedding, standing in manure, too much moisture
2. Poor hoof form - tall overgrown heels, underrun heels, long toes
3. Improper or negligent cleaning of hooves
4. High sugar diet coupled with long periods of stalling
But what if your horse gets his feet cleaned every day, his hoof form is pretty good, your pastures are high and dry, the manure is picked up daily, but the horse STILL has thrush?!? Isn't that just frustrating? Of course it is! I know this first hand, as I've been there in the not so distant past. If your situation sounds strangely common with this sentiment, then it may be high time for a Clean Trax treatment! Clean Trax is a non-necrotizing hoof cleanser that kills spores deep within the tissue, and not just surface germs like ordinary topicals do. In other words, Clean Trax will not harm sensitive tissue like harsh chemicals found in Koppertox, Thrush Buster, and others can. Clean Trax can be ordered from most online farrier supply stores, and the package directions must be followed EXACTLY to be effective. I have never found another thrush treatment to be as thoroughly effective as Clean Trax. If you have a chronic thrush problem you can't seem to kick, you MUST give it a shot! If you are interested in Clean Traxing your horse but aren't sure of the instructions, please contact me and I will help you!
Next in my bag of tricks are two very effective products - TODAY and TOMORROW Dry Cow Mastitis Treatments. I've used both with tremendous success. You can purchase both from Jeffers Equine. They come in a box of 12 tubes. One tube will treat 2-4 feet, depending on the depth of the central sulculs. You squirt the treatment down into the sulcus and fill with cotton. Continue twice daily for about 10 days, or until you can no longer fit any cotton into the central sulcus. This takes longer than Clean Trax, and doesn't kill spores, but is still very effective.
For normal frog maintenance, I use Desitin 40% (not the 10%!), and Gold Bond medicated foot powder (the original in the yellow bottle.) Smear the frog, central sulcus, and collateral grooves with Desitin, and coat with Gold Bond powder. Desitin is wonderful for creating a moisture sealed barrier, especially during the wet season. Gold Bond absorbs moisture and helps dry out the frog when the horse comes in at night after a day of wet paddock slogging. I use one or other of these almost daily on all of my horses. I've found the frogs to be much healthier and resiliant.
Another great use for Gold Bond is a good healthy squeeze into your hoof boots. It helps eliminate funky boot odor, and keep the frogs dry. One word of caution though - if your boots are on the borderline of being too big, adding the powder can cause them to slip around on the feet too much. So this is best with tighter fitting boots.
Pete Ramey uses some type of anti-fungal cream mixed with Gold Bond, but I haven't had a chance to try that out yet. I will report back when I have!
And finally one of the most important treatment protocols is STIMULUS for growth! Walking the horse in Sole Mates pads, or EVA foam pads helps to stimulate the corium that grows new hoof material. Walking a thrushy horse daily in pads helps to stimulate new frog growth, which will fill in that deep central sulcus. Bear in mind that sand can be very irritating and counter-productive, as the particles enter the sulcus and cause irritation and aggravation. If your horse has a deep sulculs, keep him in a sand-free location until the area fills in with new growth.
Sometimes it doesn't make any sense - which horses get thrush and which don't. We can do everything possible to prevent it, but sometimes the horse just has a poor immune system. Some experts also believe the bacteria responsible can survive in the soil. I have no proof to back that up, and am skeptical of the claim, but who knows? From my experience, your best bet is to keep the feet trimmed PROPERLY every 6 weeks, keep the environment clean and dry, pick out feet daily, use the above medications accordingly, and keep your horse on a lower sugar diet.
If normal treatment paths are not effective, or if the problem is continually reccuring, even after a treatment or two of Clean Trax, you should contact your veterinarian for assistance. The one case of recurring, persistent thrush I've had to deal with is on a foundered horse. Compromised circulation is suspect in this case as is hoof form that isn't quite back to normal. Veterinary consultation is also advisable on the very difficult cases because you want to make sure you truly have thrush, and not equine canker.
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